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Like his quartet of restaurant-cum-greengrocers, Bill Collison is laid-back, down-to-earth and unassuming. But behind the anything-goes demeanour lies an intricate knowledge of cooking and seasonality, and an obsessive love of food. Just look at the oversized gourds and purple potatoes spilling onto the pavement outside his original Bill's Produce Store in Lewes, East Sussex, or taste the chilli-trickled ooze of pine nuts and parmesan in a bowlful of his butternut risotto. Everything he does involves thoughtfully concocted flavours, offbeat presentation and painstaking attention to detail.
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